The fourth tutorial in the curriculum. Crimping, connector assembly, lacing and bonding are hand skills, they are cheap to practice, and the artifacts show their own quality.
You need: wire of a few gauges, ring and spade terminals, a proper ratcheting crimp tool with the right dies, a connector and its insertion and removal tools, lacing cord, and a multimeter. A pair of pliers is not a crimp tool and this session will show you why.
Session 1 — The crimp, and why the tool matters
- Crimp ten terminals with the correct ratcheting tool and die. Pull-test each one firmly.
- Now crimp five with ordinary pliers. Pull-test those.
- Cut one of each in half lengthwise if you can, and look at the barrel.
What you will see: the pliers crimps come off, or move. The correct crimps do not. Cut open, the good one shows the strands compressed uniformly into a solid mass; the pliers one shows a squashed tube with strands loose inside.
What you are learning: a crimp is a specified deformation, not a squeeze. The tool is the specification (AF-K Concepts §2).
Session 2 — Stripping without nicking
- Strip twenty wires. Examine each conductor under magnification.
- Count how many have nicked or cut strands.
- Adjust the stripper — or your technique — and do twenty more.
What will be wrong on your first attempts:
| What you will see | What it means |
|---|---|
| Strands cut through | Stripper set for a smaller gauge |
| Some strands pulled out | Stripper gripping the conductor, not just the insulation |
| Insulation torn rather than cut | Blunt or wrong-size stripper |
| Length inconsistent | Not using a stop; every terminal has a strip length |
Why it matters: a nicked strand does not fail now. It fails after some months of vibration, at the nick, and nobody will connect it to you.
Session 3 — A connector, start to finish
- Lay out the pin assignment on paper first and label every wire.
- Crimp the contacts.
- Insert with the insertion tool until each clicks home.
- Tug every wire. Any that comes back was not latched.
- Fit sealing plugs in every unused cavity.
- Assemble the backshell with the cable clamped.
- Buzz it out: continuity from each wire to its intended pin, and confirm no continuity between adjacent pins.
What will be wrong: a contact not fully home, and a wire in the wrong cavity. Both are found by step 7 and by nothing else — the connector looks identical either way.
Do step 7 every time. On an aircraft it is the difference between a working system and a reversed one.
Session 4 — Lacing and bundling
- Lace a bundle of six wires, evenly spaced, with the correct knot.
- Clamp it to a board at intervals, with cushioned clamps at the correct tension.
- Deliberately over-tighten one clamp and look at what it does to the insulation.
What you are learning: the clamp supports; it does not grip. An over-tightened clamp deforms insulation and creates the chafe point it was fitted to prevent.
Session 5 — Soldering, and the stress riser
- Solder five joints, heating the work rather than the solder.
- Deliberately make one with too much solder, and note how far the rigidity extends up the wire.
- Deliberately move one while it cools, and look at the finish.
- Flex each joint gently at the point where the rigid section ends.
What you will see: the over-soldered joint is stiff a long way up the wire, and that whole length is now a fatigue candidate. The disturbed one is dull and grainy.
What you are learning: the joint is rarely what fails. The wire fails just behind it, and the amount of solder decides where (AF-K Concepts §2).
Session 6 — Bonding, measured
- Bolt two pieces of aluminum together through paint or anodizing. Measure the resistance across the joint.
- Take it apart, clean both faces to bare metal at the contact area, reassemble. Measure again.
- Fit a bonding jumper between two separated pieces and measure.
What you will see: the painted joint reads high — often far higher than any bonding limit. It looked like a bond throughout.
What you are learning: bonding is the one thing here with an objective numerical criterion. Measure it, every time, and do not accept a bond you have not measured.
What to send back
| Element | Artifact |
|---|---|
S7 |
A board with terminated, routed, clamped and laced wiring to the supplied drawing |
S5 |
A soldered joint, correctly supported |
S10 |
A bonding jumper installation, with your measured resistance recorded |
Record the bonding resistance you measured — the number is part of the artifact. And send the pliers-crimped terminals from Session 1 with them, so the difference is visible.
License
CC BY-SA 4.0 (Licensing).